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  2. Airy wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory

    Visualization of deep and shallow water waves by relating wavelength to depth to bed. deep water – for a water depth larger than half the wavelength, h > ⁠ 1 / 2 ⁠ λ, the phase speed of the waves is hardly influenced by depth (this is the case for most wind waves on the sea and ocean surface), [9]

  3. Kelvin wake pattern - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelvin_wake_pattern

    This formula implies that the group velocity of a deep water wave is half of its phase velocity, which, in turn, goes as the square root of the wavelength. Two velocity parameters of importance for the wake pattern are: v is the relative velocity of the water and the surface object that causes the wake.

  4. Dispersion (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_(water_waves)

    In this deep-water case, the phase velocity is twice the group velocity. The red square overtakes two green circles, when moving from the left to the right of the figure. New waves seem to emerge at the back of a wave group, grow in amplitude until they are at the center of the group, and vanish at the wave group front.

  5. Phase velocity - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phase_velocity

    Frequency dispersion in groups of gravity waves on the surface of deep water. The red square moves with the phase velocity, and the green circles propagate with the group velocity. In this deep-water case, the phase velocity is twice the group velocity. The red square overtakes two green circles when moving from the left to the right of the figure.

  6. Stokes drift - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stokes_drift

    Stokes drift under periodic waves in deep water, for a period T = 5 s and a mean water depth of 25 m. Left: instantaneous horizontal flow velocities. Right: average flow velocities. Black solid line: average Eulerian velocity; red dashed line: average Lagrangian velocity, as derived from the Generalized Lagrangian Mean (GLM).

  7. Group velocity - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Group_velocity

    The group velocity is positive (i.e., the envelope of the wave moves rightward), while the phase velocity is negative (i.e., the peaks and troughs move leftward). The group velocity of a wave is the velocity with which the overall envelope shape of the wave's amplitudes—known as the modulation or envelope of the wave—propagates through space.

  8. Wave shoaling - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_shoaling

    The phase velocity c p (blue) and group velocity c g (red) as a function of water depth h for surface gravity waves of constant frequency, according to Airy wave theory. Quantities have been made dimensionless using the gravitational acceleration g and period T, with the deep-water wavelength given by L 0 = gT 2 /(2π) and the deep-water phase ...

  9. Stokes wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stokes_wave

    Stokes waves of maximum wave height on deep water, under the action of gravity. The maximum wave steepness, for periodic and propagating deep-water waves, is H / λ = 0.1410633 ± 4 · 10 −7, [29] so the wave height is about one-seventh (⁠ 1 / 7 ⁠) of the wavelength λ. [24]