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The battery in my 2000 Honda Civic is dying. I am wondering, what is the best (most reliable) car battery out there? I am just looking for one that is reliable and will last a long time. Any brand / model suggestions?
You can probably get by with car batteries, it really depends on how often the UPS has to use the battery. Here the power flickers about 2-3 times a week so I prefer marine batteries. The UPS will not overcharge. Mine actually charges the batteries better than the stand alone charger.
The wife will drive this and she is very easy on vehicles, drives like an old lady. We need another vehicle that will last 10 years at least with good reliability. Going 5+ years without a car payment is a nice feeling. I used to be a certified mechanic while I was in college so most of repairs/maintenance done myself.
Reliable, not many electronics to break and LS1/2 Mazdaspeed 3/GTI for the 4 door with less miles than the EVO/STI and better chance at finding left untouched. 350z if he was considering a mustang of that era since it was a better handler and better HP to weight. Reason why is my buddy wants to have the most fun for his money for anything under ...
When the car is turned off and set to Acc, the voltage reads 12.2-12.3v. I assume this is the actual voltage of the battery, right? What voltage do I not want to drop below so as to preserve the battery plates and also allow me to continue to start my Honda Fit? When the car is running, the voltage goes immediately up to 13.8-14.0v.
i dont want the most tech in a transmission i dont want the most gears i want the best transmission, reliable, strong, built for power, for a modern car, good at shifts, etc. lets see what ATOT says.
3.43% ASRock. 4.44% MSI. This time it is ASUS that arrives first, followed by Gigabyte. The scores of ASRock and MSI are not very good. In detail here are the return rates for Z170 motherboards (more than 100 sales, italics between 100 and 200 sales): 6.64% MSI Z170A Gaming Pro. 5.17% MSI Z170A Gaming M5.
I doubt OP has a "Battery Minder" battery charger which will actually trickle charge until about 11.9v before charging @ a faster rate. Also charging @ a rate of 20a/h is way too fast as most lead acid batteries right on their sticker specify to not charge @ a rate higher than 5a-10a/h anyway.
Either buy a power inverter ($60-80 for a 500 watt model should be fine) and hook it up to the car battery, or buy a UPS that uses a 12 volt battery, and hook up the car battery to replace the original battery. The car battery will take like ten times longer to charge but would last ten times longer, plus you can charge it with your charger.
The issue with leaving the battery in all the time with the adapter in use is how fully charged the battery is. If you limit in your laptop's charging configuration to have charging stop at a threshold, perhaps 85% (guesstimate) then it will be a lot better. If you are using the adapter most of the time, I'd remove the battery.