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There are many forms of wall plug, but the most common principle is to use a tapered tube of soft material, such as plastic. This is inserted loosely into a drilled hole, then a screw is tightened into the centre. As the screw enters the plug, the soft material of the plug expands conforming tightly to the wall material.
As early as 1885 a two-pin plug and wall socket format was available on the British market. By about 1910 the first three-pin earthed (grounded) plugs appeared. Over time other safety improvements were gradually introduced to the market. The earliest national [clarification needed] standard for plug and wall socket forms was set in 1915.
At the same time Lundberg were offering the 2.5 A Dot, 5 A Universal, and 15 A Magnum, and Tucker were offering a range of 5 A, 10 A and 20 A plugs and sockets. [27] BS 73 Wall plugs and sockets (five ampere two-pin without earthing connection) was first published in 1915, and revised in 1919 with the addition of 15 A and 30 A sizes. By the ...
The 20 A plug has a blade rotated 90° (opposite blade from what would be the "line" blade on a 2-15 or 5-15 plug. This prevents accidental insertion of plugs into outlets that use different voltages), and the 6-20R receptacle has a T-shaped hole to accept both 6-15P and 6-20P plugs (similar to the 5-20R receptacle accepting 5-15P and 5-20P plugs).
A lip wider than the hole prevents it from falling behind the wall, and often features such as cleats/spikes prevent it from rotating when being compressed. A machine screw is screwed into the sleeve, causing the anchor to bend, expand, spread and grip against the inside of the hole or behind it (in hollow contexts such as drywall over stud ...
Arren Brass Plug-In Wall Sconce Light. I installed this sconce on drywall above the makeshift vanity desk in my walk-in closet. It took me under 10 minutes to put up—the mounting plate fits onto ...