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  2. Fasciation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fasciation

    Fasciation (pronounced / ˌ f æ ʃ i ˈ eɪ ʃ ə n /, from the Latin root meaning "band" or "stripe"), also known as cresting, is a relatively rare condition of abnormal growth in vascular plants in which the apical meristem (growing tip), which normally is concentrated around a single point and produces approximately cylindrical tissue ...

  3. Crest and trough - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crest_and_trough

    A crest is a point on a surface wave where the displacement of the medium is at a maximum. A trough is the opposite of a crest, so the minimum or lowest point of the wave. When the crests and troughs of two sine waves of equal amplitude and frequency intersect or collide, while being in phase with each other, the result is called constructive ...

  4. Cetacean surfacing behaviour - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cetacean_surfacing_behaviour

    Humpback whale breach sequence. A breach or a lunge is a leap out of the water, also known as cresting. The distinction between the two is fairly arbitrary: cetacean researcher Hal Whitehead defines a breach as any leap in which at least 40% of the animal's body clears the water, and a lunge as a leap with less than 40% clearance. [2]

  5. Breaking wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breaking_wave

    The outcome is the rapid movement of the base of the wave up the swash slope and the disappearance of the wave crest. The front face and crest of the wave remain relatively smooth with little foam or bubbles, resulting in a very narrow surf zone, or no breaking waves at all. The short, sharp burst of wave energy means that the swash/backwash ...

  6. Rogue wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogue_wave

    The paper Oceanic rogue waves [54] by Dysthe, Krogstad and Muller reports on an event in the Black Sea in 2004 which was far more extreme than the Ucluelet wave, where the Datawell Waverider buoy reported a wave whose height was 10.32 metres (33.86 ft) higher and 3.91 times the significant wave height, as detailed in the paper. Thorough ...

  7. Waves and shallow water - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water

    After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies. Cnoidal waves are exact periodic solutions to the Korteweg–de Vries equation in shallow water, that is, when the wavelength of the wave is much greater than the depth of the water.

  8. Swell (ocean) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swell_(ocean)

    Breaking swell waves at Hermosa Beach, California. A swell, also sometimes referred to as ground swell, in the context of an ocean, sea or lake, is a series of mechanical waves that propagate along the interface between water and air under the predominating influence of gravity, and thus are often referred to as surface gravity waves.

  9. Rip current - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rip_current

    When the wave breaks and starts reducing in height, the radiation stress decreases as the amount of water that is elevated decreases. When this happens, the mean surface level increases — this is known as the setup. In the formation of a rip current, a wave propagates over a sandbar with a gap in it.