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1977: First alpine-style ascent of the Eiger Direct (Harlin Route) by Alex MacIntyre (UK) and Tobin Sorenson (US). [9] 1977: First Dutch ascent of the face by Ronald Naar and Bas Gresnigt. 1978: First Polish winter ascent of the face by Andrzej Czok, Walenty Fiut , Janusz Skorek and Jan Wolf, the fastest winter ascent at that time.
The first ascent of the Eiger was made by Swiss guides Christian Almer and Peter Bohren and Irishman Charles Barrington, who climbed the west flank on August 11, 1858. The north face, the "last problem" of the Alps, considered amongst the most challenging and dangerous ascents, was first climbed in 1938 by an Austrian-German expedition. [ 4 ]
The list does not include the first ascent of new routes to previously climbed mountain summits. For example, this list contains the first ascent of the summit of the Eiger in 1858, but not the more famous first ascent of the north face of the Eiger in 1938 .
This first ascent of the Eiger North Face was described by Italian climber Reinhold Messner as "a glorious moment in the history of mountaineering and a great sensation, since several climbers had previously perished on the Face", [6] made headlines around the world, [7] and is recounted in Harrer's book The White Spider, published in 1959.
First solo ascent of Mount Everest and first ascent without supplemental oxygen Reinhold Andreas Messner ( German: [ˈʁaɪnhɔlt ˈmɛsnɐ] ; born 17 September 1944) is an Italian climber , explorer, and author from the German-speaking province of South Tyrol .
Eric Jones (born 1936) is a Welsh solo climber, skydiver and BASE jumper.. He is best known for the first British solo ascent of the north face of the Eiger in 1981, and for his climbs on the Matterhorn and South Col on Mount Everest. [2]
She started in 1992, making the first female solo ascent of the 1938 Heckmair Route (ED2) on the north face of the Eiger in 17-hours (and featured in the 1992 climbing film, Eiger). [4] [13] In 1993, she made the first female solo ascent of the Walker Spur (ED1, 5.8 A1) on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses.
The north face of the Eiger. The six great north faces of the Alps are a group of vertical faces in the Swiss, French, and Italian Alps known in mountaineering for their difficulty, danger, and great height. The "Trilogy" is the three hardest of these north faces, being the Eiger, the Grandes Jorasses, and the Matterhorn.