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Back view of a detail from a textile from Sumba depicting an ancestor figure (Marapu) using a supplementary of the warp. Supplementary weaving is a decorative technique in which additional threads are woven into a textile to create an ornamental pattern in addition to the ground pattern. The supplementary weave can be of the warp or of the weft ...
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These techniques include designs worked by a supplementary weave warp, embroidery, the application of beads and shells, and, occasionally, tufting with supplementary yarns. The figures used in these textiles appear in light-colored yarns on plain backgrounds of dark blue, red, brown, or black. Lau pahudu are skirts worked with supplementary warp.
Soumak is a type of flat weave, somewhat resembling kilim, but with a stronger and thicker weave, a smooth front face and a ragged back, where kilim is smooth on both sides. Soumak lacks the slits characteristic of kilim, as it is usually woven with supplementary weft threads as continuous supports.
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It is a supplementary weft technique; that is, the ornamental brocading is produced by a supplementary, non-structural, weft in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads together. The purpose of this is to give the appearance that the weave was actually embroidered on.
Textile experts often mistake the supplementary weft pattern designs for embroidery as they say it is impossible to weave the brocade patterning on a common back-strap loom. The sapma and Tingma weft pattern designs are usually used as pattern designs for : Ngoshom: Kira with the dark ground usually blue or black. Kushuthara: Kira with a white ...