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El Capitan has two main faces, the Southwest (on the left when looking directly at the wall) and the Southeast. Between the two faces juts a massive prow. While today there are numerous established routes on both faces, the most popular and historically famous route is The Nose, which follows the massive prow.
In 1975, Kevin Worral and Mike Graham, starting from the Nose route, traversed left a bit to join this route and free climbed pitches 4 through 10 of Salathe Wall Route up to Mammoth Terraces, adding three pitches of 5.11. A little later, John Long, and John Bachar free climbed pitch three (5.11b) making all 10 pitches free. [3]
Ammon McNeely (June 3, 1970 – February 18, 2023) was an American rock climber who specialized in big wall climbing and aid climbing, and who set many speed climbing records and made the first "one-day ascent" for many climbing routes on El Capitan in Yosemite. His other interests included BASE jumping and wingsuiting.
El Capitan is composed almost entirely of a pale, coarse-grained granite approximately 100 MYA (million years old). In addition to El Capitan, this granite forms most of the rock features of the western portions of Yosemite Valley. A separate intrusion of igneous rock, the Taft Granite, forms the uppermost portions of the cliff face.
Salathé Wall (870-metres, 35-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1988 – First big wall free climb at 8a (5.13b), by Todd Skinner and Paul Piana (alternating leads). [ 210 ] [ 211 ] In 1995, Alexander Huber led all 35-pitches to become the first individual to free a big wall route at the grade.
The 16-pitch El Capitan route Zodiac, is graded 5.7 (American), A2+ (A-grade), VI (NCCS) with aid; or 5.13d (American), VI (NCCS) free The National Climbing Classification System (NCCS) was devised in the 1960s by the Sierra Club as "commitment grade" for mountaineering routes, and in particular, the time investment in a route for an "average ...
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Tommy Caldwell (born August 11, 1978) is an American rock climber who has set records in sport climbing, traditional climbing, and in big-wall climbing.Caldwell made the first free ascents of several major routes on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park.