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This formula implies that the group velocity of a deep water wave is half of its phase velocity, which, in turn, goes as the square root of the wavelength. Two velocity parameters of importance for the wake pattern are: v is the relative velocity of the water and the surface object that causes the wake.
In shallow water, the group velocity is equal to the shallow-water phase velocity. This is because shallow water waves are not dispersive. In deep water, the group velocity is equal to half the phase velocity: {{math|c g = 1 / 2 c p. [7] The group velocity also turns out to be the energy transport velocity.
The group velocity is positive (i.e., the envelope of the wave moves rightward), while the phase velocity is negative (i.e., the peaks and troughs move leftward). The group velocity of a wave is the velocity with which the overall envelope shape of the wave's amplitudes—known as the modulation or envelope of the wave—propagates through space.
Stokes drift under periodic waves in deep water, for a period T = 5 s and a mean water depth of 25 m. Left: instantaneous horizontal flow velocities. Right: average flow velocities. Black solid line: average Eulerian velocity; red dashed line: average Lagrangian velocity, as derived from the Generalized Lagrangian Mean (GLM).
Stokes waves of maximum wave height on deep water, under the action of gravity. The maximum wave steepness, for periodic and propagating deep-water waves, is H / λ = 0.1410633 ± 4 · 10 −7, [29] so the wave height is about one-seventh ( 1 / 7 ) of the wavelength λ. [24]
The red square moves with the phase velocity, and the green dots propagate with the group velocity. In this deep-water case, the phase velocity is twice the group velocity. The red square traverses the figure in the time it takes the green dot to traverse half. The dispersion relation for deep water waves is often written as
The phase velocity c p (blue) and group velocity c g (red) as a function of water depth h for surface gravity waves of constant frequency, according to Airy wave theory. Quantities have been made dimensionless using the gravitational acceleration g and period T, with the deep-water wavelength given by L 0 = gT 2 /(2π) and the deep-water phase ...
In words, this equation says that as a vertical column of water is squashed, it moves toward the Equator; as it is stretched, it moves toward the pole. Assuming, as did Sverdrup, that there is a level below which motion ceases, the vorticity equation can be integrated from this level to the base of the Ekman surface layer to obtain: