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Breaking swell waves at Hermosa Beach, California. A swell, also sometimes referred to as ground swell, in the context of an ocean, sea or lake, is a series of mechanical waves that propagate along the interface between water and air under the predominating influence of gravity, and thus are often referred to as surface gravity waves.
Inshore: The direction towards the beach from the surf, can also be referring to the wind direction direction traveling from the ocean onto the shore [2] Line-up: The queue area where most of the waves are starting to break and where most surfers are positioned in order to catch a wave; Mushy: A wave with very little push [3]
[3] [4] Protected from rip currents, spring tides, or ocean swell, a roadstead can be open or natural, usually estuary-based, or may be created artificially. [5] In maritime law, it is described as a "known general station for ships, notoriously used as such, and distinguished by the name". [6]
Bombora is an Indigenous Australian term for an area of large sea waves breaking over a shallow area such as a submerged rock shelf, reef, or sand bank that is located some distance from the shoreline and beach surf break. In slang, it is also called a bommie. [1]
Swell waves are generated by distant weather systems, where wind blows for a duration of time over a large fetch. [3] The long period swell waves (>18 s) seen during Kallakkadal/Swell surge events are generated in the southern Indian Ocean by severe low pressure system existed 3–5 days prior to the Kallakkadal events.
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Sea foam washed up or blown onto a beach. Sea foam, ocean foam, beach foam, or spume is a type of foam created by the agitation of seawater, particularly when it contains higher concentrations of dissolved organic matter (including proteins, lignins, and lipids) derived from sources such as the offshore breakdown of algal blooms. [1]
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