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Hifu (被風, 被布, 披風 ( ひふ, ひふ, ひふ )) is a kind of jacket traditionally worn over a kimono. Towards the end of the Edo Period (1603–1867), it was worn by men in cultural positions, such as by chajin (tea ceremony masters) and haijin (haiku poets). It later came to be worn by women. [1]
There are different kinds of chima: single-layered, double-layered, and quilted. Furthermore, pul-chima refers to a chima with a separated back, whereas a tong-chima has a seamed back. [ 20 ] The upper class usually use ramie as the fabric to make for summer chima while plain and patterned silks are used throughout the remainder of the year. [ 21 ]
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If the fabric is a single solid colour, or the pattern was komon (a small all-over reversible pattern), the bolt can be cut anywhere. Otherwise, the patterns would be spaced so that it was in the right place relative to where the cloth would be cut (for instance, so that a kimono's hem patterns were located at the hem on all body panels).
Ōshima-tsumugi kimono are hugely valued for their detailed kasuri patterns and deep black color. They are known as one of the most expensive silk fabrics in Japan. [ 6 ] The cheapest piece costs about 300,000 yen per bolt, or tanmono, and the highest quality costs several million yen.
These are worn with black montsuki kimono (kimono with one, three, or five family crests on the back, chest, and shoulders), white tabi (divided-toe socks), white nagajuban (under-kimono) and various types of footwear. In cooler weather, a montsuki haori (long jacket) with a white haori-himo (haori-fastener) completes the outfit.