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Bobbin lace is also known as pillow lace, because it was worked on a pillow, and bone lace, because early bobbins were made of bone [1] or ivory. Bobbin lace is one of the two major categories of handmade laces, the other being needle lace , derived from earlier cutwork and reticella .
Cutwork frill on a cotton petticoat. Cutwork or cut work, also known as punto tagliato in Italian, is a needlework technique in which portions of a textile, typically cotton or linen, [1] are cut away and the resulting "hole" is reinforced and filled with embroidery or needle lace.
Brussels lace is part lace.This is made in pieces, with the flowers and design made separate from the ground, unlike Mechlin lace or Valenciennes lace; because of this, the long threads that form the design always follow the curves of the pattern, whereas in bobbin laces made all at the same time, the threads are parallel to the length of the lace. [3]
Reticella (also reticello or in French point coupé or point couppe) is a needle lace dating from the 15th century and remaining popular into the first quarter of the 17th century. Reticella was originally a form of cutwork in which threads were pulled from linen fabric to make a "grid" on which the pattern was stitched, primarily using ...
(It is sometimes called needle-lace to distinguish it from canvas needlepoint.) Linen thread was used by Poor Clare Order nuns to make needlepoint lace. [6] Suitable linen thread is no longer available, so today cotton thread is used. Kenmare needlepoint lace [7] begins with two pieces of cloth. Over this is layered a pattern and a matt contact.
The brass bobbin in the carriage which move in a cradle between the warp threads. The Leavers machine is probably the most versatile of all machines for making patterned lace. [6] [7] A 120 inches (300 cm) machine will weigh 17 tons and have 40,000 moving parts and carry between 12,000 and 50,000 threads. Working widths are always multiples of ...
There is one shuttle per needle. [3] When the front-side needle pierces the fabric it passes the embroidery thread through the fabric from front to rear. As the needle withdraws it forms a loop on the back side of the material. The shuttle which trails the bobbin thread passes through this loop. Finally, the front-side thread is pulled tight.
It is a guipure style of lace. Bobbin lacemaking in Italy dates back to the 16th century when the main centres were Genoa and Milan , although Venice also made bobbin lace. The Genoese laces were characterized by wheatears, small tightly woven leaf-shaped tallies which formed part of the usually geometric design.