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The most generally familiar sort of breaking wave is the breaking of water surface waves on a coastline. Wave breaking generally occurs where the amplitude reaches the point that the crest of the wave actually overturns. Certain other effects in fluid dynamics have also been termed "breaking waves", partly by analogy with water surface waves.
The 30-foot (9.1 m) sailing yacht Grimalkin was in the Celtic Sea participating in the 1979 Fastnet Race when a very steep 40-foot (12.2 m) breaking wave with a 10-foot (3 m) tall curl broke over her from astern during a storm on August 14, 1979, pitchpoling her and killing two members of her crew, incapacitating another crewman who was ...
Breaking swell waves at Hermosa Beach, California. A swell, also sometimes referred to as ground swell, in the context of an ocean, sea or lake, is a series of mechanical waves that propagate along the interface between water and air under the predominating influence of gravity, and thus are often referred to as surface gravity waves.
The waters around the United Kingdom experienced weather extremes during the 12 months of 2021. Storms Arwen and Barra wreaked havoc on many coastline areas as the year ended, but the summer ...
Offshore storms shoved waves toward communities along the California coast, bringing flooding, road closures and fright to nearly 20 people who were briefly swept away on a Ventura beach on Thursday.
Sections: The parts of a breaking wave that are rideable; Sectioning: A wave that does not break evenly, breaks ahead of itself [2] Set waves: A group of waves of larger size within a swell; Shoulder: The unbroken part of a breaking wave; Surf's up: A phrase used when there are waves worth surfing [2]
Get easy, sexy waves with these three tricks in ten minutes or. Skip to main content. 24/7 Help. For premium support please call: 800-290-4726 more ways to reach us. Sign in. Mail. 24/7 Help. For ...
The standing edge wave theory, which was introduced by Guza and Inman (1975), suggests that swash is superimposed upon the motion of standing edge waves that travel alongshore. This produces a variation in swash height along the shore and consequently results in regular patterns of erosion. The cusp embayments form at the eroding points and ...