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"Large breaking waves along the coast will lead to increased wave run-up on beaches with waves topping and washing over large rocks and jetties," the NWS said. "These large waves can be erratic ...
News. Science & Tech. Shopping. Sports. Weather ’Hazardous coastal conditions’ close Pismo Beach Pier as waves pound Central Coast. Kaytlyn Leslie. December 28, 2023 at 4:38 PM.
It sounded like a wave breaking — a really hard wave. It was insane.” Another witness, Michael Shryock, was heading south on Carlsbad Boulevard when he saw the car crash.
The most generally familiar sort of breaking wave is the breaking of water surface waves on a coastline. Wave breaking generally occurs where the amplitude reaches the point that the crest of the wave actually overturns. Certain other effects in fluid dynamics have also been termed "breaking waves", partly by analogy with water surface waves.
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1) dissipation by "wave breaking" Wind-wave breaking at coastal area is a major source of the wind-wave dissipation. The wind waves lose their energy to the shore or sometimes back to the ocean when those break at the shore. (see more explains -> “Ocean surface wave breaking”) 2) dissipation by "wave–turbulence interaction"
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