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A preheat fluorescent lamp circuit using automatic starting switch. A: Fluorescent tube, B: Power (+220 volts), C: Starter, D: Switch (bi-metallic thermostat), E: Capacitor, F: Filaments, G: Ballast. When power is first applied to the circuit, there will be a glow discharge across the electrodes in the starter lamp.
A: Fluorescent tube, B: Power (+220 volts), C: Starter, D: Switch (bi-metallic thermostat), E: Capacitor, F: Filaments, G: Ballast Starting a preheat lamp. The automatic starter switch flashes orange each time it attempts to start the lamp.
[1] [3] To prevent this, fluorescent tubes are connected to the power line through a ballast. The ballast adds positive impedance (AC resistance) to the circuit to counteract the negative resistance of the tube, limiting the current. [1] Several American magnetic ballasts for fluorescent lamps. The top is a rapid start series autoregulator ...
Schematic for Choke Ballasts: Note the use of one ballast per lamp, one lamp starter per lamp and a capacitor. Tanning beds may use 1 or several capacitors, depending on rating. These systems require 230 V AC Schematic for HF Ballasts: It is much simpler as everything is self-contained. The main disadvantage is price, costing several times more ...
In the 1970s, 34-watt energy-saving F40T12 fluorescent lamps were intoroduced in the United States. In the 1980s, T8 32-watt lamps were introduced, [8] but unlike the T8 tubes introduced in Europe, these T8s are not retrofits and require new matching ballasts to drive them. These ballasts were originally magnetic, but most today are electronic.
Ballasts for discharge lamps. Like fluorescent lamps, HID lamps require a ballast to start and maintain their arcs. The method used to initially strike the arc varies: mercury-vapor lamps and some metal-halide lamps are usually started using a third electrode near one of the main electrodes, while other lamp styles are usually started using ...