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a the wave amplitude of each frequency component in metres, k 1 and k 2 the wave number of each wave component, in radians per metre, and; ω 1 and ω 2 the angular frequency of each wave component, in radians per second. Both ω 1 and k 1, as well as ω 2 and k 2, have to satisfy the dispersion relation:
A dispersion relation relates the wavelength or wavenumber of a wave to its frequency. Given the dispersion relation, one can calculate the frequency-dependent phase velocity and group velocity of each sinusoidal component of a wave in the medium, as a function of frequency. In addition to the geometry-dependent and material-dependent ...
Brunt–Väisälä frequency. In atmospheric dynamics, oceanography, asteroseismology and geophysics, the Brunt–Väisälä frequency, or buoyancy frequency, is a measure of the stability of a fluid to vertical displacements such as those caused by convection. More precisely it is the frequency at which a vertically displaced parcel will ...
In the physical sciences, the wavenumber (or wave number), also known as repetency, [1] is the spatial frequency of a wave, measured in cycles per unit distance (ordinary wavenumber) or radians per unit distance (angular wavenumber). [2][3][4] It is analogous to temporal frequency, which is defined as the number of wave cycles per unit time ...
The spectrum of ice is similar to that of liquid water, with peak maxima at 3400 cm −1 (2.941 μm), 3220 cm −1 (3.105 μm) and 1620 cm −1 (6.17 μm) [14] In both liquid water and ice clusters, low-frequency vibrations occur, which involve the stretching (TS) or bending (TB) of intermolecular hydrogen bonds (O–H•••O).
The Keulegan–Carpenter number is important for the computation of the wave forces on offshore platforms. In fluid dynamics, the Keulegan–Carpenter number, also called the period number, is a dimensionless quantity describing the relative importance of the drag forces over inertia forces for bluff objects in an oscillatory fluid flow.
The group velocity of a wave is the velocity with which the overall envelope shape of the wave's amplitudes —known as the modulation or envelope of the wave—propagates through space. For example, if a stone is thrown into the middle of a very still pond, a circular pattern of waves with a quiescent center appears in the water, also known as ...
The shoaling coefficient depends on the local water depth and the wave frequency (or equivalently on and the wave period = /). Deep water means that the waves are (hardly) affected by the sea bed, which occurs when the depth h {\displaystyle h} is larger than about half the deep-water wavelength L 0 = g T 2 / ( 2 π ) . {\displaystyle L_{0}=gT ...