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Open gown over stomacher, 1753. A stomacher is a decorated triangular panel that fills in the front opening of a woman's gown or bodice. The stomacher may be boned, as part of a stays, or may cover the triangular front of a corset. If simply decorative, the stomacher lies over the triangular front panel of the stays, being either stitched or ...
The high-waisted gown of the late medieval period evolved in several directions in different parts of Europe. In the German states and Bohemia, gowns remained short-waisted, tight-laced but without corsets or stays. The open-fronted gown laced over the kirtle or a stomacher or plackard. Sleeves were puffed and slashed, or elaborately cuffed.
Gowns were made in a variety of styles: Loose or fitted (called in England a French gown); with short half sleeves or long sleeves; and floor length (a round gown) or with a trailing train. [20] [21] The gown was worn over a kirtle or petticoat (or both, for warmth). Prior to 1545, the kirtle consisted of a fitted one-piece garment. [22]
A long gown with a train has fur at the cuffs and neckline and is worn with a wide belt, c. 1460. An attendant in the same illustration wears a red hood with a long liripipe. Her blue dress is "kirtled" or shortened by poufing it over a belt, c. 1460. Woman wears a simple headdress of draped linen and a red houppelande trimmed with white fur ...
Nowadays, it might also be worn as a push-up bra under a low-backed dress or as a camisole for outerwear. The bustier can also be worn as a half-slip under sheer upper garments if a bold display of the midriff is not desired. [1] A bustier resembles a basque, but it is shorter. It reaches down only to the ribs or waist.
Tammis Keefe, a cloth designer whose patterns appeared at Lord and Taylor in September 1952, used a harlequin print diamond pattern on a large cloth she crafted for a table setting show. [5] In a July 1954 article in the Washington Post, columnist Olga Curtis mentioned harlequin print fabrics and cellophane as very novel ideas in accessories. [6]
The Robe à l'Anglaise or English gown was also a popular style in Europe. The English-style gown featured a fitted back and open front skirt to display decorated underskirts, as in the Robe à la Française. [10] The final version of the mantua, which emerged around 1780, bore little resemblance to the original mantua of nearly a century earlier.
The Swedish countess Beata Elisabet von Königsmarck wears a white silk gown with a long tight bodice, flat skirt, wide double puffed sleeves, bare shoulders and a deep cleavage. The dress is decorated with blue ribbons and a blue shawl draped around the breasts.