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One year later, in October 2005, she became the first woman to free climb the Salathé Wall, on El Capitan, [2] The route is rated 5.13b/c, is 35 pitches, and approximately 3,200 feet (980 m) long. [1] [12] The difficulty of the climb can be described as "spidering up the side of a skyscraper, climbing to [handholds] no bigger than lentils". [1]
El Capitan has two main faces, the Southwest (on the left when looking directly at the wall) and the Southeast. Between the two faces juts a massive prow . While today there are numerous established routes on both faces, the most popular and historically famous route is The Nose , which follows the massive prow.
The Salathé Wall is one of the original big wall climbing routes up El Capitan, a 3,000-foot (900 m) high granite monolith in Yosemite National Park.The Salathé Wall was named by Yvon Chouinard in honor of John Salathé, a pioneer of rock climbing in Yosemite.
El Capitan is composed almost entirely of a pale, coarse-grained granite approximately 100 MYA (million years old). In addition to El Capitan, this granite forms most of the rock features of the western portions of Yosemite Valley. A separate intrusion of igneous rock, the Taft Granite, forms the uppermost portions of the cliff face.
Ammon McNeely (June 3, 1970 – February 18, 2023) was an American rock climber who specialized in big wall climbing and aid climbing, and who set many speed climbing records and made the first "one-day ascent" for many climbing routes on El Capitan in Yosemite. His other interests included BASE jumping and wingsuiting.
The Nose (870-metres, 31-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1993 – Second multi-pitch at 5.14a (8b+), [193] by Lynn Hill (partnered by Brooke Sandahl); the big-wall free climb is considered as one of the most important ascents in rock climbing history, and also a major milestone in female rock climbing; in 1994, Hill repeated it in ...
Long's many climbing feats include the first one-day ascent of the most sought-after rock climb in North America, the 3,000 foot Nose route on El Capitan, on Memorial Day, 1975, with Jim Bridwell and Billy Westbay. The following year, partnered with Dale Bard, Long made the second one-day ascent of El Cap via the West Face, in the remarkable ...
[7] [16] During this era, new milestones were also set in big-wall free solo climbing by Alexander Huber, with Brandler-Hasse Direttissima on the Cima Grande in 2012 at 7a+ (5.12a), by Hansjörg Auer, with Fish Route on the Marmolada in 2007 at 7b+ (5.12c), and by Alex Honnold with Freerider on El Capitan in 2017 at 7c+ (5.13a). [16]