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There are different grades and types of copper pipe that you of course should be aware of. However I think your question is whether copper pipe is really a commodity type product - whether there's a difference between products of the same grade / type made by various manufacturers and sold by various retailers and wholesalers.
If you choose to replace the pipe with flexible copper, you should shut off the gas and take the pipe with you to the store. With the pipe in hand, it should be no problem finding replacement pipe. You might also find that the end(s) of your copper pipe are flared. If they are, you'll also need to flare the ends of the new pipe.
I'm installing a new vanity and found green oxidation at the elbow joints of the copper pipes exiting the wall. As you can see in the pictures below, there is much more oxidation on the hot water pipe (first two pics) than the cold water pipe (third pic). I recently purchased the home and don't know the history of this plumbing.
Ammonia and related materials can cause stress corrosion cracking of brasses.That is why brass flex tubes have not been used for decades to connect gas appliances. I just read that galvanized metal touching copper pipes isn't a good idea. Sweating and condensation can result in the two metals reacting to one another.
How to join to this pipe. anneal the cut ends (get them red hot with a propane (or MAPP, oxy, etc) torch) rent or buy a pipe expander and stretch a socket (US:hub) into each end. then solder in new 1/2" copper between the sockets. Share. Improve this answer. answered Mar 16, 2022 at 8:16. Jasen. 24.2k 1 24 42.
Plumbers use inside diameter for their pipe sizes and refrigeration and A/C people use outside diameter for their pipe sizes. Hence, normal 1/2" copper pipe (tubing) for a plumber is 1/2" copper, but for refrigeration that same pipe (tubing) would be 5/8" copper. I am typing " pipe (tubing)" since pipe can be threaded and tubing can not. –
Viewed 35k times. 2. What kind of clamp would be appropriate for securing a 1/2" copper pipe that's run through a wall to the outside to a hose bib? I'll accept a general answer. In my particular case it's a stucco wall out there. I want something strong so it does not stress the caulking that protects the wall.
1. You need to heat the copper to point where it is hot enough to melt the solder. I've had problems using propane torches for this purpose, so bought a Mapp torch. Makes all the difference. Another thing that will impede the heating of the copper pipe is any kind of moisture in the pipe.
You should only use about 1/2" to 3/4" of solder to make a joint on that size; don't add more or you could just fill the pipe. Keep a dry rag to knock off excess solder and a wet rag to cool and clean the joint. Flux causes oxidation (turns green). Don't worry about burning off flux: it will take unless it's too hot.
You have 3 or more options. #1 get a shark bite to go from galvanized to copper. #2 You need to go to a plumbing store and get a galvanized nipple and then extend your copper to the point the pipe screws into a coupling or other fitting. #3 If you don't want to extend your copper get an exact measurement and have a new piece of pipe cut and threaded. #1 is the easiest way and may be the most ...