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Without elasticity, the varnish would soon crack, allowing water to penetrate the wood beneath. Prior to the development of modern polymer chemistry, varnish production was rudimentary. Originally, spar varnish was a "long oil" varnish, composed primarily of drying oil with a small proportion of resin, usually boiled linseed oil and rosin. [1]
Wood should be marked for cutting using pencil rather than ink; however, avoid hard or soft pencil. HB is recommend for face work and 2H for joint work. [6] Care should be taken to avoid squeeze-out of glue from joints because the glue will reduce absorption of stain and finish.
Varnish on wood stairs Varnished oak floor. Varnish is a clear transparent hard protective coating or film. It is not to be confused with wood stain. It usually has a yellowish shade due to the manufacturing process and materials used, but it may also be pigmented as desired. It is sold commercially in various shades.
Artex differs from plaster in that it was marketed as a material intended to receive a textured finish, thus enabling a ceiling to be finished without plastering skills. It was widely used in Britain in the 1970s, mainly with the familiar stippled and swirled patterns. Artex was also occasionally used on walls. [2]
The technique, which became known as japanning, involves applying several coats of varnish which are each heat-dried and polished. In the 18th century, japanning gained a large popular following. Although traditionally a pottery and wood coating, japanning was the popular (mostly black) coating of the accelerating metalware industry.
Wood finishing is one of the most traditional and still popular uses of shellac mixed with solvents or alcohol. This dissolved shellac liquid, applied to a piece of wood, is an evaporative finish: the alcohol of the shellac mixture evaporates, leaving behind a protective film. [39] Shellac as wood finish is natural and non-toxic in its pure form.
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