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where ξ is the Iribarren number, is the angle of the seaward slope of a structure, H is the wave height, L 0 is the deep-water wavelength, T is the period and g is the gravitational acceleration. Depending on the application, different definitions of H and T are used, for example: for periodic waves the wave height H 0 at deep water or the ...
This is a list of wave topics. ... Coherence time; Cold wave; Collimated light; Collimator; ... Wave period; Wave plate; Wave pool; Wave pounding;
Position of a point in space, not necessarily a point on the wave profile or any line of propagation d, r: m [L] Wave profile displacement Along propagation direction, distance travelled (path length) by one wave from the source point r 0 to any point in space d (for longitudinal or transverse waves) L, d, r
x is the horizontal coordinate and the wave propagation direction (meters), z is the vertical coordinate, with the positive z direction pointing out of the fluid layer (meters), λ is the wave length (meters), T is the wave period . As derived below, the horizontal component ū S (z) of the Stokes drift velocity for deep-water waves is ...
Shallow-water equations can be used to model Rossby and Kelvin waves in the atmosphere, rivers, lakes and oceans as well as gravity waves in a smaller domain (e.g. surface waves in a bath). In order for shallow-water equations to be valid, the wavelength of the phenomenon they are supposed to model has to be much larger than the depth of the ...
A wave flume (or wave channel) is a special sort of wave tank: the width of the flume is much less than its length. The generated waves are therefore – more or less – two-dimensional in a vertical plane (2DV), meaning that the orbital flow velocity component in the direction perpendicular to the flume side wall is much smaller than the ...
The phase velocity of an electromagnetic wave in such a medium is = = + For the case of an Alfvén wave = + where is the Alfvén wave group velocity. (The formula for the phase velocity assumes that the plasma particles are moving at non-relativistic speeds, the mass-weighted particle velocity is zero in the frame of reference, and the wave is ...
While periodic travelling waves have been known as solutions of the wave equation since the 18th century, their study in nonlinear systems began in the 1970s. A key early research paper was that of Nancy Kopell and Lou Howard [1] which proved several fundamental results on periodic travelling waves in reaction–diffusion equations. This was ...