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On 8 May 1978, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler made the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. [40] Messner had ascended all 14 "eight-thousanders" without supplemental oxygen by 1986. Running out of bottled oxygen was noted as a factor in the 1979 deaths of Ray Genet and Hannelore Schmatz on Mount Everest. [41]
Bottled oxygen can help mountaineers survive in the death zone. Mountaineers use supplemental oxygen in the death zone to reduce deleterious effects. An open-circuit oxygen apparatus was first tested on the 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest expeditions; the bottled oxygen taken in 1921 was not used (see George Finch and Noel Odell).
Solo ascent of Mount Everest Lars Olof Göran Kropp (11 December 1966 – 30 September 2002) was a Swedish mountaineer, the first Scandinavian to climb Mount Everest without oxygen. He made a solo ascent of Mount Everest without bottled oxygen or Sherpa support on 23 May 1996, after traveling there from Sweden by bicycle and foot.
[citation needed] Breathing pure oxygen results in an elevated partial pressure of oxygen in the blood: a climber breathing pure oxygen at the summit of Mount Everest has a greater oxygen partial pressure than breathing air at sea level. This results in being able to exert greater physical effort at altitude.
It is about half of its sea-level value at 5,000 m (16,000 ft), the altitude of the Everest Base Camp, and only a third at 8,848 m (29,029 ft), the summit of Mount Everest. [9] When pO 2 drops, the body responds with altitude acclimatization. [10]
On Monday, as they broke into the "death zone" above 26,000 feet — where most human bodies begin to fatally break down without supplemental oxygen — Ballinger posted about the conditions on ...