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On 8 May 1978, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler made the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. [40] Messner had ascended all 14 "eight-thousanders" without supplemental oxygen by 1986. Running out of bottled oxygen was noted as a factor in the 1979 deaths of Ray Genet and Hannelore Schmatz on Mount Everest. [41]
Bottled oxygen can help mountaineers survive in the death zone. Mountaineers use supplemental oxygen in the death zone to reduce deleterious effects. An open-circuit oxygen apparatus was first tested on the 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest expeditions; the bottled oxygen taken in 1921 was not used (see George Finch and Noel Odell).
[citation needed] Breathing pure oxygen results in an elevated partial pressure of oxygen in the blood: a climber breathing pure oxygen at the summit of Mount Everest has a greater oxygen partial pressure than breathing air at sea level. This results in being able to exert greater physical effort at altitude.
Anyone who has even loosely followed events on Mt. Everest in recent years is probably familiar with the terrifying "conga line” photos of climbers stuck in the world’s highest traffic jam.
As part of his preparation for the Mt. Everest expedition, Graham Cooper spent months sleeping in a hypoxic tent that slowly lowers the oxygen level to mimic conditions at extreme altitude.
The North Face of Mount Everest, scene of the British expeditions of the 1920s and 30s In 1924 the British made another attempt on Everest , and the world altitude record was again broken. On 4 June, Edward Norton, without supplemental oxygen, reached a point on the mountain's Great Couloir 8,572.8 m (28,126 ft) high, his companion Howard ...