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Kuba cloth can be found in private collections as well as museums all over the world. Women, typically pregnant women, are responsible for the embroidery. Using a variety of stitches on a raffia base creates the intricate geometric patterns that are characteristic of Kuba cloth. The Kuba are inspired by imagination and the environment.
They could range in color from a tie-dyed mess or solid white cloth, to striped red, white and black cloth found in most parts of the island, the geometric patterns in unique shades of green and brown produced by a handful of Sakalava villages, or the brilliantly multi-colored, complex weaves favored by the pre-colonial Merina aristocracy. [2]
The mola originated with the tradition of Guna women painting their bodies with geometric designs, using available natural colors; at a certain point, after the arrival of the Spanish, these same designs were woven in cotton, and later still, sewn using cloth "acquired by trade from the ships that came to barter for coconuts during the 19th ...
Twentieth-Century Pattern Design, Princeton Architectural Press, New York, 2002. ISBN 1-56898-333-6; Jackson, Lesley. Shirley Craven and Hull Traders: Revolutionary Fabrics and Furniture 1957-1980, ACC Editions, 2009, ISBN 1-85149-608-4; Jenkins, David, ed. The Cambridge History of Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 2003, ISBN 0-521-34107-8
Dobby, or dobbie, is a woven fabric produced on the dobby loom, characterised by small geometric patterns and extra texture in the cloth. [1] The warp and weft threads may be the same colour or different. Satin threads are particularly effective in this kind of weave as their texture will highlight the pattern. [2] [failed verification]
The patterns used range from geometric tribal motifs to figurative patterns of humans and animals. Clamp resist dyeing is used by the Kuba. Raphia panels are folded to form a cube and then clamped and dip dyed. The clamps are removed after dyeing to reveal the resist pattern in natural raphia against the usually black dyed background.