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K2 from Godwin-Austen Glacier (photo Sella 1909 [note 1]). The 1939 American Karakoram expedition to K2 was the unsuccessful second attempt by American mountaineers to climb the then-unclimbed second-highest mountain in the world, K2, following the 1938 reconnaissance expedition.
K2 from Godwin-Austen Glacier (photo Sella 1909 [note 1]). The 1938 American Karakoram expedition to K2, more properly called the "First American Karakoram expedition", investigated several routes for reaching the summit of K2, an unclimbed mountain at 28,251 feet (8,611 m) the second highest mountain in the world.
K2 became known as the Savage Mountain after George Bell—a climber on the 1953 American expedition—said, "It's a savage mountain that tries to kill you." [ 9 ] Of the five highest mountains in the world, K2 has long been the deadliest: prior to 2021, approximately one person had died on the mountain for every four who reached the summit .
K2 from the south. The Abruzzi Spur attempted by the expedition is the last spur before the right hand skyline. The highest point reached is the flattened part of the skyline at two-thirds height. The 1953 American Karakoram expedition was a mountaineering expedition to K2, at 8,611 metres the second highest mountain on Earth.
Jim Wickwire (born June 8, 1940) is the first American to summit K2, the second highest mountain in the world (summit at 8,611 m (28,251 ft)). [1] [2] [3] Wickwire is also known for surviving an overnight solo bivouac on K2 at an elevation above 27,000 ft or 8,200 m; considered "one of the most notorious bivouacs in mountaineering history".
In 1936, Houston was a member of the British–American Himalayan Expedition led by the British climber H.W. Tilman to the top of Nanda Devi in India, the highest mountain climbed at that time. In 1938, he was the leader of the first American Karakoram expedition to K2. Although he did not reach the summit, his party mapped a route to the top ...
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The story of the expedition is told in the book K2 — The Savage Mountain by Houston and Bates. Today, The Belay is considered to be one of the most famous events in mountaineering history. [4] Schoening's ice axe is currently on display at the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum in Golden, Colorado.