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  2. Breaking wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breaking_wave

    The most generally familiar sort of breaking wave is the breaking of water surface waves on a coastline. Wave breaking generally occurs where the amplitude reaches the point that the crest of the wave actually overturns. Certain other effects in fluid dynamics have also been termed "breaking waves", partly by analogy with water surface waves.

  3. Iribarren number - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iribarren_number

    Breaking wave types: free surface and bubble plumes, as redrawn from photographs taken during a wave flume experiment. [ 1 ] In fluid dynamics , the Iribarren number or Iribarren parameter – also known as the surf similarity parameter and breaker parameter – is a dimensionless parameter used to model several effects of (breaking) surface ...

  4. Waves and shallow water - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water

    After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies. Cnoidal waves are exact periodic solutions to the Korteweg–de Vries equation in shallow water, that is, when the wavelength of the wave is much greater than the depth of the water.

  5. Wave setup - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_setup

    In fluid dynamics, wave setup is the increase in mean water level due to the presence of breaking waves. Similarly, wave setdown is a wave-induced decrease of the mean water level before the waves break (during the shoaling process). For short, the whole phenomenon is often denoted as wave setup, including both increase and decrease of mean ...

  6. Internal wave breaking - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_wave_breaking

    Internal wave breaking is a process during which internal gravity waves attain a large amplitude compared to their length scale, become nonlinearly unstable and finally break. This process is accompanied by turbulent dissipation and mixing.

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  9. Wake (physics) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wake_(physics)

    As with all wave forms, it spreads outward from the source until its energy is overcome or lost, usually by friction or dispersion. The non-dimensional parameter of interest is the Froude number . Wave cloud pattern in the wake of the Île Amsterdam (lower left, at the "tip" of the triangular formation of clouds) in the southern Indian Ocean