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  2. Wave pounding - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_pounding

    Wave pounding is a force of erosion along coast lines. The effects of wave pounding are influenced by wave shape, ocean chemistry, rock type, and morphology of the coastal landscape. There are three different types of waves to consider in this process: spilling, plunging, and surging waves.

  3. Marine geophysics - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marine_geophysics

    Data from marine seismic refraction experiments defined a thin ocean crust, approximately 6 to 8 kilometers in thickness, divided into three layers. [ 18 ] [ 19 ] Seismic reflection measurements made over the ocean ridges found they are devoid of sediments at the crest, but covered by increasingly thicker sediment layers with increasing ...

  4. Waves and shallow water - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water

    After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies. Cnoidal waves are exact periodic solutions to the Korteweg–de Vries equation in shallow water, that is, when the wavelength of the wave is much greater than the depth of the water.

  5. Marine geology - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marine_geology

    In later years, newer technology was able to date the rocks and identified that rocks closest to the ridge were younger than the rocks near the coasts of the Western and Eastern Hemispheres land. At present, marine geology focuses on geological hazards, environmental conditions, habitats, natural resources, and energy and mining projects. [10]

  6. Miles-Phillips mechanism - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miles-Phillips_mechanism

    In physical oceanography and fluid mechanics, the Miles-Phillips mechanism describes the generation of wind waves from a flat sea surface by two distinct mechanisms. Wind blowing over the surface generates tiny wavelets. These wavelets develop over time and become ocean surface waves by absorbing the energy transferred from the wind.

  7. What caused the huge waves that battered California’s coast?

    www.aol.com/news/caused-huge-waves-battered...

    A high tide of about 6.5 feet accompanied the massive wavesmeaning those waves crashed closer to shore than normal. ... ocean-wide wave that can take two to three months to reach California ...

  8. Geophysics - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geophysics

    For example, the Earth's mean specific gravity (5.515) is far higher than the typical specific gravity of rocks at the surface (2.7–3.3), implying that the deeper material is denser. This is also implied by its low moment of inertia (0.33 M R 2, compared to 0.4 M R 2 for a sphere of constant density). However, some of the density increase is ...

  9. What causes earthquakes? The science behind why seismic ... - AOL

    www.aol.com/causes-earthquakes-science-behind...

    Those seismic waves are like ripples on a pond, the USGS said. The earthquake will be strongest at its epicenter, the point on the surface directly above where the quake started, and the effects ...