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The golden age of alpinism was the decade in mountaineering between Alfred Wills's ascent of the Wetterhorn in 1854 [1] and Edward Whymper's ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865, during which many major peaks in the Alps saw their first ascents. [2] [3] [4]
[1] Whilst the golden age of alpinism (1854–1865) was characterised by the first ascents of many of the greatest Alpine peaks, the subsequent silver age may be seen as consisting of the first ascents of the many worthwhile peaks left unclimbed, although these peaks were – and remained – largely unknown to the wider public in Britain.
In the early 1850s the taste for mountaineering developed, with stimulus provided by the foundation of various national Alpine clubs. The first was the English Alpine Club (founded in the winter of 1857–1858), followed in 1862 by the Austrian Alpine Club, the Italian and Swiss Alpine Club in 1863 and the German Alpine Club in 1869.
This list tabulates all of the 82 official mountain summits of 4,000 metres (13,123 ft) or more in height in the Alps, as defined by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA). [1] All are located within France, Italy or Switzerland, and are often referred to by mountaineers as the Alpine four-thousanders.
Alps: Rudolf von Rosenroll: Jul 1726: Monte Cavallo: 2251: Alps: Giovanni Girolamo Zanichelli and Dimenico Pietro Stefanelli [11] 1730: Schesaplana: 2965: Alps: Nicolin Sererhard and two companions [12] 20 Jul 1738: Corazón: 4790: Andes: Charles Marie de La Condamine, Pierre Bouguer and porters: 25 Jul 1744: Titlis: 3238: Alps: Ignaz Herz ...
[1] The first climber to ascend all six north faces in a single year was the Austrian Leo Schlömmer, from the summer of 1961 to the summer of 1962. Ivano Ghirardini was the first person to climb the "Trilogy" in winter, solo (1977–78), and Catherine Destivelle was the first woman (1992-93-94) to complete the solo winter trilogy. [2]