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Double cloth or double weave (also doublecloth, double-cloth, doubleweave) is a kind of woven textile in which two or more sets of warps and one or more sets of weft or filling yarns are interconnected to form a two-layered cloth. [2] The movement of threads between the layers allows complex patterns and surface textures to be created.
This is a rectangular frame to which a series of wires, called heddles or healds, are attached. The yarns are passed through the eye holes of the heddles, which hang vertically from the harnesses. The weave pattern determines which harness controls which warp yarns, and the number of harnesses used depends on the complexity of the weave.
For a plain weave on a loom with two shafts, for example, the first thread would go through the first heddle on the first shaft, and then the next thread through the first heddle on the second shaft. The third warp thread would be threaded through the second heddle on the first shaft, and so on.
Weaving a silk rebozo with a dyed-warp pattern on a backstrap loom, Taller Escuela de Rebocería in Santa María del Río, San Luis Potosí, Mexico. There are also other ways to create counter-sheds. A shed-rod is simpler and easier to set up than a heddle-bar, and can make a counter-shed.
Tablet weaving is especially freeing, because any pattern can be created by turning individual tablets. This is in contrast to normal looms, in which the complexity of the pattern is limited by the number of shafts available to lift threads, and the threading of the heddles. Tablet weaving can also be used to weave tubes or double weave.
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A loom from the 1890s with a dobby head. A dobby loom, or dobbie loom, [1] is a type of floor loom that controls all the warp threads using a device called a dobby. [2]Dobbies can produce more complex fabric designs than tappet looms [2] but are limited in comparison to Jacquard looms.