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12 V: 19 W PGJ19-3 H16B 1 12 V: 19 W PGJY19-3 H21W 1 12 V & 24 V: 21 W BAY9s H27W/1 1 12 V: 27W PG13 USA ANSI № 880 H27W/2 1 12 V: 27 W PGJ13 USA ANSI № 881 HB3 1 12 V: 60 W P20d 90° USA, Japan ANSI № 9005 ECE nominal luminous flux: 1700 lm ±15% HB3A 1 12 V: 60 W P20d 180° USA ANSI № 9005XS HB4 1 12 V: 51 W P22d 90° USA, Japan
The suffix after the G indicates the pin spread; the G dates to the use of Glass for the original bulbs. GU usually also indicates that the lamp provides a mechanism for physical support by the luminaire: in some cases, each pin has a short section of larger diameter at the end (sometimes described as a "peg" rather than a "pin" [2]); the socket allows the bulb to lock into place by twisting ...
The wires are usually inserted into a plastic base that the bulb is mounted in, and which is often narrower at the tip than at the bulb, giving it a wedge shape and usually ensuring a tight connection, depending on manufacturing tolerances. Some bulbs have no plastic base, and the wires are simply bent up to the sides of the bulb's glass base.
However, they were often packaged with a nine-socket string to extend the life of the bulbs. Bubble lights could also be purchased individually for use in existing light strings. Modern incarnations either use candelabra base (E12) 120-volt bulbs, or push-in wedge base "midget" size miniature bulbs (most commonly ten 12-volt bulbs wired in series).
These lamps use a bi-pin connector for power: 12-volt MR11 bulbs usually use a GU4 base, and 12-volt MR16 bulbs usually use a GU5.3 base. The common 12-volt MR16 lamps, therefore, require a ferromagnetic or electronic transformer—sometimes misnamed as a ballast—to convert the 120- or 230-volt mains voltage to the extra-low voltage required ...
All you need to do is power up this hot rod with its 12-volt wall charge and take it for a spin—literally, this sweet little red ride can seamlessly make 360 degree rotations.
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