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While hakama used to be a required part of menswear, nowadays typical Japanese men usually wear hakama only on extremely formal occasions and at tea ceremonies, weddings, and funerals. Hakama are also regularly worn by practitioners of a variety of martial arts, such as kendo, iaido, taidō, aikido, jōdō, ryū-te, and kyūdō.
It is often called áo dài Việt Nam to link it to patriotic feelings. Designer Le Si Hoang is a celebrity in Vietnam and his shop in Ho Chi Minh City is the place to visit for those who admire the dress. [25] In Hanoi, tourists get fitted with áo dài on Luong Van Can Street. [29]
Áo tứ thân is a traditional Vietnamese dress for women, [27] [28] [29] especially popular in the Northern region. [30] [31] [32] It is made from four pieces of cloth, two front panels and two back panels. [33] According to researchers, Áo tứ thân may have originated from the Lý dynasty. [34]
Formal hakama (trousers) became longer than the legs and also trailed behind the wearer. [19] Men's formal dress included agekubi collars and very wide sleeves. [10] The concept of the hidden body remained, with ideologies suggesting that the clothes served as "protection from the evil spirits and outward manifestation of a social rank".
The term "suikan hakama" is also used to refer to the long hakama worn with the Suikan, although the exact meaning of this term is somewhat debated. [4] It is considered a quite formal form of clothing. [3] It features very large sleeves that attach to the shoulders for a short distance. The garment is made from one very wide fabric panel.
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The origins of monpe are found in hakama, which were introduced to the Japanese court around the sixth century, and primarily used as professional clothing for men. Once conceived, owing to their simple construction, monpe did not change significantly in style for centuries, and continued to be practical garments to wear during outdoor work.
Heian ladies commonly slept in the innermost layers of their jūnihitoe, the hakama and kosode, using them as a form of pajamas. Layers could be shed or kept, depending on the season and the nighttime temperatures. By the Muromachi period, however, the number of layers of the dress had reduced considerably.