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The first is a cleaner for electrical connectors, which removes existing corrosion. This is done by some aggressive ingredients, which later will lead even more corrosion. (Like vinegar: can be used to remove rust, but also causes rust) The second product is used after to protect the now clean contacts from further corrosion.
1. Make sure the power is totally off, then spray the exposed pins with plastic safe contact cleaner, then gently scrape and file with a needle file. Then spray a bit too much cleaner on the exposed pins and connect the connector to try to clean the internal connector. You can use a NON conductive protective grease to prevent future corrosion ...
I have removed a few connectors and as weird as it sounds, I found that the best thing that worked for me, was a pair of long necked hose pliers. They are circular at the end, so one side of the pliers can press right on the press down clip and press it in nice and deep, whilst the other side can open nice and wide and grab the other side of ...
I'm trying to identify this connector. It's the connector for the fuel pressure sensor on my '02 Renault Laguna II. The contacts are intermittent and in need of replacing, but I can't find this con...
It seems that this is one of Delphi's own proprietary connectors - it's not a Tyco one. From a cursory search, the mating connector appears to be "Delphi 13658062". However there is no datasheet for that one for some reason. There is information on the Delphi 13658063 which is the same except for the locating notch position. In fact if you look ...
"Paint on" electrical tape – I've never used the stuff, but it is available and it might work well in some applications, I think it would do a better job of excluding moisture than tape. If the affected area is small and the car is old one of the easier approaches might be to replace the section of the wiring harness, or to rebuild it.
They are not impervious to vibrations or poor application. This requires the use of crimpers and the butt connectors themselves, so take a little more time than the twist/tape method. Also, the quality of the butt connectors has a large bearing on the finished product. The far better method for a permanent fix is to solder and heat shrink ...
In general silicone gease applied to the parts before and after assembly is a good way to go. It will be pushed out of the way where you have tight metal to metal contact so it won't cause electrical connection problems. It won't crack up if things move slightly and it won't stop you dismantling and reassembling things if you need to.
Butt Connectors they don`t seem to be designed for putting in 2 wires on one end. Crimping Tubes (Aluminum) Found them at a rc hobby supply store - but they are not intended for (stranded)wire use at all "Scotchlock" Type They are intended for automotive use; however i don`t consider this a permanent or even sufficient electrical connection.
I've had several problems with my car's wiring oxidizing at the exposed ends near and under post clamp and causing electrical connectivity problems. The braided wire is a pain to brush clean and I wanted to solder them to the post clamp to prevent this in the future, to prevent oxidation from coming between the wire and the clamp.