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The bodices of French, Spanish, and English styles were stiffened into a cone or flattened, triangular shape ending in a V at the front of the woman's waist. Italian fashion uniquely featured a broad U-shape rather than a V. [ 14 ] Spanish women also wore boned, heavy corsets known as "Spanish bodies" that compressed the torso into a smaller ...
Line art drawing of a bodice. A bodice (/ ˈ b ɒ d ɪ s /) is an article of clothing traditionally for women and girls, covering the torso from the neck to the waist.The term typically refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the 18th century, or to the upper portion of a modern dress to distinguish it from the skirt and sleeves.
Front Claps for corsets. A busk (also spelled busque) is a rigid element of a corset at the centre front of the garment. [1] Two types exist, one- and two-part busks. [2]Single-piece busks were used in "stays" and bodices from the sixteenth to early nineteenth centuries and were intended to keep the front of the corset or bodice straight and upright.
[4] [5] The term "stays" was frequently used in English circa 1600 until the early twentieth century, and was used interchangeably with corset in the Renaissance. [6] The term "jumps," deriving from the French word jupe "short jacket," referred to stays without boning, which were less structured and typically laced in the front.
The bodice was boned and stiffened to create a more structured form, and often a busk was inserted to emphasise the flattening and elongation of the torso. [7] Small geometric patterns appeared early in the period and, in England, evolved into the elaborate patterns associated with the flowering of blackwork embroidery .
The wardrobe accounts of Queen Elizabeth mention the purchase of thousands of special "great verthingale pynnes", "myddle verthingale pynnes", and "smale verthingale pynnes" from 1563. [48] These were probably used for pinning deep tucks in fathingales to hold whalebone supports, and to position heavy silk skirts in place over the farthingale.
Hinged iron corset with back clasp opening. 1580–99. York Castle Museum. A steel corset in the Stibbert Museum, Florence, Italy, is dated to the mid-16th century, and thought to be similar to the metal stays recorded as having been made by a corazzaio mastro (master armour-maker) for Eleanor of Toledo, and delivered to her on 28 February 1549. [5]
[4] [5] In 1600 BC, snake goddess figurines with open dress-fronts revealing entire breasts, were sculpted in Minos. [2] By that time, Cretan women in Knossos were wearing ornamental fitted bodices with open cleavage, sometimes with a peplum. [6] Another set of Minoan figurines from 1500 BC show women in bare-bosomed corsets. [7] [8]