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Since this shallow-water phase speed is independent of the wavelength, shallow water waves do not have frequency dispersion. Using another normalization for the same frequency dispersion relation, the figure on the right shows that for a fixed wavelength λ the phase speed c p increases with increasing water depth. [1]
A dispersion relation relates the wavelength or wavenumber of a wave to its frequency. Given the dispersion relation, one can calculate the frequency-dependent phase velocity and group velocity of each sinusoidal component of a wave in the medium, as a function of frequency. In addition to the geometry-dependent and material-dependent ...
Wave. Surface waves in water showing water ripples. In physics, mathematics, engineering, and related fields, a wave is a propagating dynamic disturbance (change from equilibrium) of one or more quantities. Periodic waves oscillate repeatedly about an equilibrium (resting) value at some frequency. When the entire waveform moves in one direction ...
Frequency dispersion in groups of gravity waves on the surface of deep water. The red square moves with the phase velocity, and the green circles propagate with the group velocity. In this deep-water case, the phase velocity is twice the group velocity. The red square overtakes two green circles when moving from the left to the right of the figure.
The group velocity of a wave is the velocity with which the overall envelope shape of the wave's amplitudes —known as the modulation or envelope of the wave—propagates through space. For example, if a stone is thrown into the middle of a very still pond, a circular pattern of waves with a quiescent center appears in the water, also known as ...
The shallow-water equations (SWE) are a set of hyperbolic partial differential equations (or parabolic if viscous shear is considered) that describe the flow below a pressure surface in a fluid (sometimes, but not necessarily, a free surface). [1] The shallow-water equations in unidirectional form are also called (de) Saint-Venant equations ...
From the dispersion relation, in certain situations different modes–meaning different combinations of n and m–may resonate at the same frequency even though they have different shapes for their x- and y-dependence. For example, if the boundary is square, L x = L y, the modes n = 1 and m = 7, n = 7 and m = 1, and n = 5 and m = 5 all resonate at
A capillary wave is a wave traveling along the phase boundary of a fluid, whose dynamics and phase velocity are dominated by the effects of surface tension. Capillary waves are common in nature, and are often referred to as ripples. The wavelength of capillary waves on water is typically less than a few centimeters, with a phase speed in excess ...