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  2. Wave pounding - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_pounding

    Wave pounding is a force of erosion along coast lines. The effects of wave pounding are influenced by wave shape, ocean chemistry, rock type, and morphology of the coastal landscape. There are three different types of waves to consider in this process: spilling, plunging, and surging waves.

  3. Surf break - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surf_break

    A type of open ocean surf break, these occur where sand build ups occur well offshore to produce breaking waves in the open ocean, which are sometimes called 'Outer Banks', which are similar to open ocean reefs except that they are generally made of sand, and may disappear or change with storms. The 'Outer Banks' in North Carolina is an example.

  4. What caused the huge waves that battered California’s coast?

    www.aol.com/news/caused-huge-waves-battered...

    El Niño event brings ocean-wide waves. The El Niño event is accompanied by oceanic downwelling Kelvin waves.This occurs when a thick, warm layer of the Pacific Ocean sloshes east — creating an ...

  5. Breakwater (structure) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breakwater_(structure)

    A breakwater structure is designed to absorb the energy of the waves that hit it, either by using mass (e.g. with caissons), or by using a revetment slope (e.g. with rock or concrete armour units). In coastal engineering , a revetment is a land-backed structure whilst a breakwater is a sea-backed structure (i.e. water on both sides).

  6. California beachgoers enthralled by huge waves from storms ...

    www.aol.com/california-beachgoers-enthralled...

    Offshore storms shoved waves toward communities along the California coast, bringing flooding, road closures and fright to nearly 20 people who were briefly swept away on a Ventura beach on Thursday.

  7. 'Rogue' or 'sneaker?' What caused the giant wave in the ... - AOL

    www.aol.com/weather/rogue-sneaker-caused-giant...

    Kwajalein Atoll -- colloquially referred to as "Kwaj" by residents -- is a ring of islands in the Pacific Ocean, rough. ... At the site where the wave hit, 50 soldiers were dropped off to fix ...

  8. Rip current - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rip_current

    When the wave breaks and starts reducing in height, the radiation stress decreases as the amount of water that is elevated decreases. When this happens, the mean surface level increases — this is known as the setup. In the formation of a rip current, a wave propagates over a sandbar with a gap in it.

  9. Erosion - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Erosion

    Wave pounding is when the sheer energy of the wave hitting the cliff or rock breaks pieces off. Abrasion or corrasion is caused by waves launching sea load at the cliff. It is the most effective and rapid form of shoreline erosion (not to be confused with corrosion). Corrosion is the dissolving of rock by carbonic acid in sea water. [28]