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The height of the wave was reported to be abnormally high with respect to the sea state at the time of the incident. [58] In March 2014, a massive wave struck Roi-Namur in Kwajalein Atoll in the Marshall Islands on an otherwise calm, sunny day, penetrating well inland, flooding parts of the island and swamping coastal roads. [59]
A sea state is characterized by statistics, including the wave height, period, and spectrum. The sea state varies with time, as the wind and swell conditions change. The sea state can be assessed either by an experienced observer (like a trained mariner) or by using instruments like weather buoys, wave radar or remote sensing satellites.
Significant wave height H 1/3, or H s or H sig, as determined in the time domain, directly from the time series of the surface elevation, is defined as the average height of that one-third of the N measured waves having the greatest heights: [5] / = = where H m represents the individual wave heights, sorted into descending order of height as m increases from 1 to N.
The wave crashed over a barrier along the Southern California beach, tossing a wall of fast-moving water at a group of onlookers who rushed to escape the deluge, video taken by Colin Hoag shows.
The National Weather Service reported “significant wave heights” off the coast of San Luis Obispo on Thursday morning, with a buoy outside of Morro Bay recording wave heights of 23 feet at 17 ...
"Rapidly rising" wave heights of 14 to 18 feet were forecast for Saturday along the east-facing coastline of the Big Island, where waves could remain dangerously "large and disorganized" through ...
Depending on context, wave height may be defined in different ways: For a sine wave, the wave height H is twice the amplitude (i.e., the peak-to-peak amplitude): [1] =.; For a periodic wave, it is simply the difference between the maximum and minimum of the surface elevation z = η(x – c p t): [1] = {()} {()}, with c p the phase speed (or propagation speed) of the wave.
In fluid dynamics, wind wave modeling describes the effort to depict the sea state and predict the evolution of the energy of wind waves using numerical techniques.These simulations consider atmospheric wind forcing, nonlinear wave interactions, and frictional dissipation, and they output statistics describing wave heights, periods, and propagation directions for regional seas or global oceans.