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Look 15 has a black long-sleeved bodice with heavy embellishment and embroidery all over, with a long black pleated skirt. [10] The best-known look from the collection is the last, Look 16, a tailored long coat with high ruff collar. The entire coat is made from gilded feathers, and it is worn over a white tulle skirt with gold hem embroidery.
It is made of several layers of tulle which jut out similar to a classical tutu, but the layers are longer and have a downward droop, usually to mid-thigh. [citation needed] There are several versions of the modern tutu: Classical tutu: a skirt made of 10-12 layers of stiff tulle sewn on to a pantie and basque at hip level.
[22] [23] She had travelled to Connemara for inspiration, where she saw a woman wearing a traditional red flannel petticoat. She bought a bolt of the same fabric from the local shop and made it into a quilted evening skirt, which was a huge success at the fashion show. [23] One of these skirts is part of the collection at The Hunt Museum.
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Critics lauded the collection's variety—a belted gold velvet dress layered over a blush turtleneck; a silver fringed sweater atop a gold-fringed skirt; and bad-girl black swans in tulle, leather and gold-star embroideries. The finale gave way to ingenues in the tea-stained, ruffled tulle dresses and sparkly sweetheart-shaped bodices. [61]
The most significant design from Irere is the oyster dress, a reinterpretation of a 1987 design by John Galliano called the "shellfish dress", which McQueen had long admired and sought to emulate. [60] [61] McQueen's design is a one-shouldered dress in bias-cut beige silk chiffon with a boned upper body and a full-length skirt.