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Women's fashions of the early 16th century consisted of a long gown, usually with sleeves, worn over a kirtle or undergown, with a linen chemise or smock worn next to the skin. The high-waisted gown of the late medieval period evolved in several directions in different parts of Europe.
An attendant in the same illustration wears a red hood with a long liripipe. Her blue dress is "kirtled" or shortened by poufing it over a belt, c. 1460. Woman wears a simple headdress of draped linen and a red houppelande trimmed with white fur. Note that the sleeve is only attached to the dress at the top, 1467–1471.
Gowns were made in a variety of styles: Loose or fitted (called in England a French gown); with short half sleeves or long sleeves; and floor length (a round gown) or with a trailing train. [20] [21] The gown was worn over a kirtle or petticoat (or both, for warmth). Prior to 1545, the kirtle consisted of a fitted one-piece garment. [22]
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"We have been asked to make a dress that is gonna break the 100-pound barrier. This is, like, a major construction job," said Sondra Celli on "My Big Fat American Gypsy Wedding."
Italian fashion of this period features broad bands of embroidered or woven trim on the dress and around the sleeves. [31] Siena, c. 1340. A bride wears a long fur-lined gown with hanging sleeves over a tight-sleeved kirtle, with a veil. Her gown is trimmed with embroidery or (more likely) braid.