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Diamond proportions and facets, for the round brilliant cut. The modern round brilliant-cut was developed by Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919. The ideal proportions are 100% diameter, 53% table, 43.1% pavilion and 16.2% crown. The girdle and culet (if any—not part of
Another modification of the round ideal cut that maintains the basic proportions of its angles is the passion cut. [22] This cut's design can be considered the opposite of the hearts and arrows, as it eliminates the arrows in order to capture a different light return from the center of the diamond.
Marcel Tolkowsky (25 December 1899 – 10 February 1991), [1] an engineer by education, was a Belgian member of a Jewish family of diamond cutters from Poland.He is generally acknowledged as the father of the modern round brilliant diamond cut. [2]
For instance, a 2.20-carat (440 mg) octahedron may produce (i) either two half-carat (100 mg) diamonds whose combined value may be higher than that of (ii) a 0.80-carat (160 mg) diamond plus a 0.30-carat (60 mg) diamond that could be cut from the same rough diamond. The round brilliant cut and square brilliant cuts are preferred when the ...
Then a burr of the proper size is used to cut what is known as a "bearing", which is a notch that corresponds to the angles of the stone. The burr most often used is called a "hart bur", and is angled and sized for the job of setting diamonds. The bearing is cut equally into all of the prongs and at the same height above the base.
The diamond cut planning stage is a complex process that requires the cutter to work with unique rough stones. Very often, the location of the inclusions in a rough stone will determine the type of shape to which a diamond may be cut. For economic reasons, most diamonds are cut to retain weight instead of maximizing brilliance. [2]
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