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  2. Shallow water drilling - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shallow_water_drilling

    Shallow water drilling is the process of oil and gas exploration and production in less than 150 meters (500 feet) of water. [1] Shallow water drilling differs from deepwater drilling in several key aspects. Shallow water rigs have legs that reach the bottom of the sea floor and have blowout preventers (BOPs) above the surface of the water that ...

  3. Airy wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Airy_wave_theory

    Visualization of deep and shallow water waves by relating wavelength to depth to bed. deep water – for a water depth larger than half the wavelength, h > ⁠ 1 / 2 ⁠ λ, the phase speed of the waves is hardly influenced by depth (this is the case for most wind waves on the sea and ocean surface), [9]

  4. Cnoidal wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cnoidal_wave

    Cnoidal wave descriptions, through a renormalisation, are also well suited to waves on deep water, even infinite water depth; as found by Clamond. [13] [14] A description of the interactions of cnoidal waves in shallow water, as found in real seas, has been provided by Osborne in 1994. [15]

  5. Ursell number - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ursell_number

    h : the mean water depth, and; λ : the wavelength, which has to be large compared to the depth, λ ≫ h. So the Ursell parameter U is the relative wave height H / h times the relative wavelength λ / h squared. For long waves (λ ≫ h) with small Ursell number, U ≪ 32 π 2 / 3 ≈ 100, [3] linear wave theory is applicable.

  6. Dispersion (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dispersion_(water_waves)

    In shallow water, the group velocity is equal to the shallow-water phase velocity. This is because shallow water waves are not dispersive. In deep water, the group velocity is equal to half the phase velocity: {{math|c g = ⁠ 1 / 2 ⁠ c p. [7] The group velocity also turns out to be the energy transport velocity.

  7. Korteweg–De Vries equation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korteweg–De_Vries_equation

    Cnoidal wave solution to the Korteweg–De Vries equation, in terms of the square of the Jacobi elliptic function cn (and with value of the parameter m = 0.9). Numerical solution of the KdV equation u t + uu x + δ 2 u xxx = 0 (δ = 0.022) with an initial condition u(x, 0) = cos(πx).

  8. Waves and shallow water - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water

    When waves travel into areas of shallow water, they begin to be affected by the ocean bottom. [1] The free orbital motion of the water is disrupted, and water particles in orbital motion no longer return to their original position. As the water becomes shallower, the swell becomes higher and steeper, ultimately assuming the familiar sharp ...

  9. Shallow water equations - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shallow_water_equations

    Shallow-water equations can be used to model Rossby and Kelvin waves in the atmosphere, rivers, lakes and oceans as well as gravity waves in a smaller domain (e.g. surface waves in a bath). In order for shallow-water equations to be valid, the wavelength of the phenomenon they are supposed to model has to be much larger than the depth of the ...