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Dispersion of gravity waves on a fluid surface. Phase and group velocity divided by shallow-water phase velocity √ gh as a function of relative depth h / λ. Blue lines (A): phase velocity; Red lines (B): group velocity; Black dashed line (C): phase and group velocity √ gh valid in shallow water.
The free surface of this wave solution is an inverted (upside-down) trochoid – with sharper crests and flat troughs. This wave solution was discovered by Gerstner in 1802, and rediscovered independently by Rankine in 1863. The flow field associated with the trochoidal wave is not irrotational: it has vorticity.
A flow that is not a function of time is called steady flow. Steady-state flow refers to the condition where the fluid properties at a point in the system do not change over time. Time dependent flow is known as unsteady (also called transient [8]). Whether a particular flow is steady or unsteady, can depend on the chosen frame of reference.
Shallow-water equations can be used to model Rossby and Kelvin waves in the atmosphere, rivers, lakes and oceans as well as gravity waves in a smaller domain (e.g. surface waves in a bath). In order for shallow-water equations to be valid, the wavelength of the phenomenon they are supposed to model has to be much larger than the depth of the ...
Showing wall boundary condition. The most common boundary that comes upon in confined fluid flow problems is the wall of the conduit. The appropriate requirement is called the no-slip boundary condition, wherein the normal component of velocity is fixed at zero, and the tangential component is set equal to the velocity of the wall. [1]
F•dS is the component of flux passing through the surface, multiplied by the area of the surface (see dot product). For this reason flux represents physically a flow per unit area . Here t ^ {\displaystyle \mathbf {\hat {t}} \,\!} is a unit vector in the direction of the flow/current/flux.
The force pushing the water towards the low pressure region is called the pressure gradient force. In a geostrophic flow, instead of water moving from a region of high pressure (or high sea level) to a region of low pressure (or low sea level), it moves along the lines of equal pressure . This occurs because the Earth is rotating.
Dispersion may be caused either by geometric boundary conditions (waveguides, shallow water) or by interaction of the waves with the transmitting medium. Elementary particles , considered as matter waves , have a nontrivial dispersion relation, even in the absence of geometric constraints and other media.