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Dress reformers exhorted readers to reform the corset, or risk destroying the "civilized" races. [ 15 ] : 135 On the other hand, those who argued for the importance of corsets cited Darwinism as well, specifically the notion that women were less evolved and thus frailer, in need of the support of a corset.
The tight lacing of corsets worn in the 19th and early 20th centuries emphasized both cleavage and the size of the bust and hips. Evening gowns and ball gowns were especially designed to display and emphasize the décolletage. [43] [44] Elaborate necklaces decorated the décolletage at parties and balls by 1849. [92]
Dress in Holland, Belgium, and Flanders, now part of the Empire, retained a high, belted waistline longest. Italian gowns were fitted to the waist, with full skirts below. The French gown of the first part of the century was loosely fitted to the body and flared from the hips, with a train. The neckline was square and might reveal the kirtle ...
Elizabeth Vernon (later Countess of Southampton) at her dressing table wears an embroidered linen jacket over her rose-pink corset, 1590s. During this period, women's underwear consisted of a washable linen chemise or smock. This was the only article of clothing that was worn by every woman, regardless of class.
Margherita Portinari, a banker's daughter of Bruges, [46] wears a green dress laced up the front with a single lace over a dark kirtle. Her hair is worn loose under a black cap with a pendant jewel, Netherlands, 1476–1478. Children's clothing during the Italian Renaissance reflected that of their parents.
Anne of Denmark had her gowns altered in 1603 to suit English fashions, and employed Robert Hughes to make farthingales from 1603 to 1618. [28] Robert Naunton thought that Anne's farthingale might conceal a pregnancy in October 1605, writing, "The Queen is generally held to be pregnant, but no appearance eminent by reason of the short vardugals ...