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Breaking swell waves at Hermosa Beach, California. A swell, also sometimes referred to as ground swell, in the context of an ocean, sea or lake, is a series of mechanical waves that propagate along the interface between water and air under the predominating influence of gravity, and thus are often referred to as surface gravity waves.
[3] [4] Protected from rip currents, spring tides, or ocean swell, a roadstead can be open or natural, usually estuary-based, or may be created artificially. [5] In maritime law , it is described as a convenient or safe place where boats usually anchor.
In oceanography, sea state is the general condition of the free surface on a large body of water—with respect to wind waves and swell—at a certain location and moment. A sea state is characterized by statistics, including the wave height, period, and spectrum. The sea state varies with time, as the wind and swell conditions change.
Set waves: A group of waves of larger size within a swell; Shoulder: The unbroken part of a breaking wave; Surf's up: A phrase used when there are waves worth surfing [2] Swell: A series of waves that have traveled from their source in a distant storm, and that will start to break once the swell reaches shallow enough water
Swell waves are generated by distant weather systems, where wind blows for a duration of time over a large fetch. [ 3 ] The long period swell waves (>18 s) seen during Kallakkadal/Swell surge events are generated in the southern Indian Ocean by severe low pressure system existed 3–5 days prior to the Kallakkadal events.
Ocean Swell, like both of his parents, was bred by his owner, the Liberal politician and former First-class cricketer, Harry Primrose, 6th Earl of Rosebery, [1] at his Mentmore Stud. [2] He was a bay horse with a narrow white blaze and white socks on both his hind legs.
Wind-wave dissipation or "swell dissipation" is process in which a wave generated via a weather system loses its mechanical energy transferred from the atmosphere via wind. Wind waves, as their name suggests, are generated by wind transferring energy from the atmosphere to the ocean's surface, capillary gravity waves play an essential role in ...
Infragravity waves are surface gravity waves with frequencies lower than the wind waves – consisting of both wind sea and swell – thus corresponding with the part of the wave spectrum lower than the frequencies directly generated by forcing through the wind. Infragravity waves are ocean surface gravity waves generated by ocean waves of ...