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1) Acrylic enamel seems to be a thick (high viscosity) paint when compared to laquer and enamel. Is single stage urethane as thick as acrylic enamel? 2) 2 stage paint jobs require sanding, polishing and buffing before applying the clear coat and also after the clear coat is applied.
Rustoleum, or any other enamel type paint, using this ratio for mixing 8-4-1, thats 8 parts paint, 4 parts slow, medium or fast automotive enamel redcuer, and 1 part generic acrylic enamel hardener (Evercoats DOI wetlook). 1 tack coat, wait for paint to flash, depending on temp, humidity, then followed by 2 medium coats of paint.
If so, I have used their acrylic lacquer for over 20 years. It's a quality product equivalent to PPG. In fact the lacquer thinner numbers are the same as PPG's. For primer, I use TP Tools Direct to Metal 2K Urethane High Build Primer (#TP-1063). Much better than lacquer primer/surfacer. Dries quickly and sands easily.
When I was restoring a few cars for my own use back in the 1970s, I used lacquer, acrylic lacquer, and acrylic enamel paints, purchased from quality automotive paint supply stores. I liked the acrylic enamel, the way it sprayed, covered, and dried, as well as how it looked when done. I wish that was still available.
Another route would be to obtain a single stage ( catalyzed ) acrylic urethane enamel such as Duponts Nason or a PPG single stage urethane enamel. Another option would be to use a Dupont catalyzed enamel which was the paint chemistry from mid sixties through much of the 70's .
Restoration Shop AL Acrylic Lacquer system is an easy to use fast drying single stage Acrylic Lacquer product. Restoration Shop AE Acrylic Enamel system is an easy to use single stage High Gloss product designed for overall Automotive Refinishing as well as an excellent Fleet and equipment finish.
HiI want to paint my engine and trans, both are out of the car. Last time I did a car I used Bill Hirsch paint and I didn't like it. I went to my local paint store and they said to use epoxy primer on the bare metal & cast iron. Then go over it with acrylic urethane single stage with hardner....
I'd go with base/clear or urethane SS. Acrylic enamel would be 3rd. I would'nt bother with Laquer anymore. PPG still sells Duracryl but I've had a lot of problems with it using it to repair 70/80's restorations. I believe they removed the lead from the system and it's fussy as heck to whether it will lay down or crack instantly.
320 grit hand blocked wet or dry is coarser then I would finish with but if color sanding non-metallic single stage urethane you could get away with it. Have been painting since the early '70s on the side and full time when needed. Painted many black lacquer jobs in the day and now am teaching hobbyists how-to-paint classes in urethanes.
Later, some OEM colors were added. Isocyanates were what made it that way, although you had to have (basically) haz-mat gear on to shoot it or be near it being shot. Even by the middle 1980s, Centari was an "antique' paint. Everybody was headed toward the multi-stage basecoat/clearcoat paints, in acrylic enamel.