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Exterior of the lab. The first wave research equipment was the wave flume. [3] It is 360 feet (110 m) long, 12 feet (3.7 m) wide, and 15 feet (4.6 m) deep. [3] It is used to simulate the waves of the ocean, and creates 5-foot-high (1.5 m) waves with currents strong enough to surf on. [3] The wave flume holds up to 350,000 gallons of water. [3]
where ξ is the Iribarren number, is the angle of the seaward slope of a structure, H is the wave height, L 0 is the deep-water wavelength, T is the period and g is the gravitational acceleration. Depending on the application, different definitions of H and T are used, for example: for periodic waves the wave height H 0 at deep water or the ...
Composite video is an baseband analog video format that typically carries a 405, 525 or 625 line interlaced black and white or color signal, on a single channel, unlike the higher-quality S-Video (two channels) and the even higher-quality YPbPr (three channels).
A wave flume (or wave channel) is a special sort of wave tank: the width of the flume is much less than its length. The generated waves are therefore – more or less – two-dimensional in a vertical plane (2DV), meaning that the orbital flow velocity component in the direction perpendicular to the flume side wall is much smaller than the ...
The interference of two waves. In phase: the two lower waves combine (left panel), resulting in a wave of added amplitude (constructive interference). Out of phase: (here by 180 degrees), the two lower waves combine (right panel), resulting in a wave of zero amplitude (destructive interference). Interfering water waves on the surface of a lake
The coherence time, usually designated τ, is calculated by dividing the coherence length by the phase velocity of light in a medium; approximately given by = where λ is the central wavelength of the source, Δν and Δλ is the spectral width of the source in units of frequency and wavelength respectively, and c is the speed of light in vacuum.
x is the horizontal coordinate and the wave propagation direction (meters), z is the vertical coordinate, with the positive z direction pointing out of the fluid layer (meters), λ is the wave length (meters), T is the wave period . As derived below, the horizontal component ū S (z) of the Stokes drift velocity for deep-water waves is ...
In fluid dynamics and nautical terminology, a breaking wave or breaker is a wave with enough energy to "break" at its peak, reaching a critical level at which linear energy transforms into wave turbulence energy with a distinct forward curve. At this point, simple physical models that describe wave dynamics often become invalid, particularly ...