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Counted cross-stitch embroidery, Hungary, mid-20th century. Counted-thread embroidery is any embroidery in which the number of warp and weft yarns in a fabric are methodically counted for each stitch, resulting in uniform-length stitches and a precise, uniform embroidery pattern. [1]
Counted stitch blackwork, 1530s (left), and free stitch blackwork, 1590s (right). Blackwork, sometimes historically termed Spanish blackwork, is a form of embroidery generally worked in black thread, although other colours are also used on occasion, as in scarletwork, where the embroidery is worked in red thread. [1]
In the oldest pieces, the figures were drawn freehand on the fabric and surrounded with Holbein stitch. The background, often cream linen, [2] was filled as well as possible. For more modern pieces the pattern was constructed carefully on a paper grid in much the same way as counted cross-stitch patterns are created.
However, whitework can either be counted or free. Hardanger embroidery is a counted embroidery and the designs are often geometric. [22] Conversely, styles such as Broderie anglaise are similar to free embroidery, with floral or abstract designs that are not dependent on the weave of the fabric. [23]
These fabrics are typically required as foundations for counted-thread embroidery styles such as blackwork, cross-stitch, and needlepoint, so that a stitch of the same "count" (that is, crossing the same number of fabric threads) will be the same length whether it crosses warp or weft threads.
In Bokhara couching or Bokhara stitch, the couched threads are held in place with many tiny crossing stitches, which may be aligned from row to row to produce patterns. [ 6 ] [ 7 ] In Roumanian stitch , long satin stitches are each held in place with a small diagonal stitch made in the center.