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An example of Lea Stein's Art Deco jewellery. This poised cat brooch is called "Quarrelsome." Léa Stein (born 11 February 1936) is a French artist and accessories maker, known for her compressed plastic buttons, brooches and bracelets. She is often hailed as "the most notable and innovative designer of plastic jewelry of the 20th century". [1] [2]
Art Deco, short for the French Arts décoratifs (lit. ' Decorative Arts '), [1] is a style of visual arts, architecture, and product design, that first appeared in Paris in the 1910s (just before World War I), [2] and flourished in the United States and Europe during the 1920s to early 1930s.
Growing political tensions, the after-effects of the war, and a reaction against the perceived decadence of the turn of the 20th century led to simpler forms, combined with more effective manufacturing for mass production of high-quality jewellery. Covering the period of the 1920s and 1930s, the style has become popularly known as Art Deco.
Jakob Bengel was a chain and costume jewelry factory, founded by Jakob Bengel in 1873 in Idar-Oberstein, Germany. Until 1920, the company specialized in the production of watch chains and chatelaines (pendants for pocket watches). In the 1920s and 1930s, it became one of the leading manufacturers of fashion jewelry in the Art Deco style. [1]
The Art Deco movement was an attempt to combine the harshness of mass production with the sensitivity of art and design. The movement died with the onset of the Great Depression and the outbreak of World War II. [3] According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of the costume jewelry in the Art Deco period were: [4]
Marcel Chaumet (1886–1964) succeeded his father Joseph in 1928, at the height of the Art Deco period. The jewellery house participated in the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, becoming a leader in this trend. Jewellery was more geometric, following the 'boyish style' of the 1920s, becoming more feminine during the 1930s.