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A crinoline / ˈ k r ɪ n. əl. ɪ n / is a stiff or structured petticoat designed to hold out a skirt, popular at various times since the mid-19th century. Originally, crinoline described a stiff fabric made of horsehair ("crin") and cotton or linen which was used to make underskirts and as a dress lining. The term crin or crinoline continues ...
[3] [4] The crinoline was a type of integrated padded petticoat that developed from this technology. The more elaborate and specialized bustle eventually replaced the crinoline. While the wireframe bustle was popular only very briefly, simpler padded cushions returned after the bustle went out of fashion, and have remained popular. [3] [5]
The Spanish verdugado, from which "farthingale" derives, was a hoop skirt originally stiffened with esparto grass; later designs in the temperate climate zone were stiffened with osiers (willow withies), rope, or (from about 1580) whalebone.
The word "petticoat" came from Middle English pety cote [4] or pety coote, [5] meaning "a small coat/cote". [6] Petticoat is also sometimes spelled "petty coat". [7] The original petticoat was meant to be seen and was worn with an open gown. [3] The practice of wearing petticoats as undergarments was well established in England by 1585. [8]
Top: Minoan statuette, 1600 BCE.Verdugada, c. 1470s Bottom: Farthingale, c. 1600.Hoop or pannier, 1750–80. Cage crinoline with steel hoops, 1865. LACMA M.2007.211.380. A hoop skirt or hoopskirt is a women's undergarment worn in various periods to hold the skirt extended into a fashionable shape.
The purpose of the crinoline was to create an artificial hourglass silhouette by accentuating the hips, and fashioning an illusion of a small waist; along with the corset. The cage crinoline was constructed by joining thin metal strips together to form a circular structure that could solely support the large width of the skirt.
Large crinolines were probably reserved for special occasions. [ 6 ] Skirts were now assembled of shaped panels, since gathering a straight length of fabric could not provide the width required at the hem without unwanted bulk at the waist; this spelled the end of the brief fashion for border-printed dress fabrics.
The earlier form of the pannier took the shape similar to a 19th-century crinoline. They were wide and domed in circumference. [ 1 ] As they developed, they differed from earlier equivalents such as the farthingale of the late 16th century, by not extending equally in all directions, but being very wide at the sides, but not coming out so far ...