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Notice the flat troughs and sharp crests, due to the wave nonlinearity. This case (drawn on scale) shows a wave with the wavelength equal to 39.1 m, the wave height is 1.8 m (i.e. the difference between crest and trough elevation), and the mean water depth is 5 m, while the gravitational acceleration is 9.81 m/s 2.
Dispersion of gravity waves on a fluid surface. Phase and group velocity divided by shallow-water phase velocity √ gh as a function of relative depth h / λ. Blue lines (A): phase velocity; Red lines (B): group velocity; Black dashed line (C): phase and group velocity √ gh valid in shallow water.
This part of the pattern is independent of the speed and size of the wake source over a significant range of values. However, at higher speeds (specifically, at large Froude number) other parts of the pattern come into play. At the tips of the transverse wave arcs their crests turn around and continue inside the V cone and towards the source ...
When following a single particle in pure wave motion (U = 0), according to linear Airy wave theory, a first approximation gives closed elliptical orbits for water particles. [36] However, for nonlinear waves, particles exhibit a Stokes drift for which a second-order expression can be derived from the results of Airy wave theory (see the table ...
Simulation of wave penetration—involving diffraction and refraction—into Tedious Creek, Maryland, using CGWAVE (which solves the mild-slope equation). In fluid dynamics, the mild-slope equation describes the combined effects of diffraction and refraction for water waves propagating over bathymetry and due to lateral boundaries—like breakwaters and coastlines.
In incompressible fluids (liquids) such as water, a bow wake is created when a watercraft moves through the medium; as the medium cannot be compressed, it must be displaced instead, resulting in a wave. As with all wave forms, it spreads outward from the source until its energy is overcome or lost, usually by friction or dispersion.
A wave model requires as initial conditions information describing the state of the sea. An analysis of the sea or ocean can be created through data assimilation, where observations such as buoy or satellite altimeter measurements are combined with a background guess from a previous forecast or climatology to create the best estimate of the ongoing conditions.
An "undertow" is a steady, offshore-directed compensation flow, which occurs below waves near the shore. Physically, nearshore, the wave-induced mass flux between wave crest and trough is onshore directed. This mass transport is localized in the upper part of the water column, i.e. above the wave troughs.