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  2. Breaking wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Breaking_wave

    The outcome is the rapid movement of the base of the wave up the swash slope and the disappearance of the wave crest. The front face and crest of the wave remain relatively smooth with little foam or bubbles, resulting in a very narrow surf zone, or no breaking waves at all. The short, sharp burst of wave energy means that the swash/backwash ...

  3. Crest and trough - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crest_and_trough

    A crest is a point on a surface wave where the displacement of the medium is at a maximum. A trough is the opposite of a crest, so the minimum or lowest point of the wave. When the crests and troughs of two sine waves of equal amplitude and frequency intersect or collide, while being in phase with each other, the result is called constructive ...

  4. Cetacean surfacing behaviour - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cetacean_surfacing_behaviour

    Humpback whale breach sequence. A breach or a lunge is a leap out of the water, also known as cresting. The distinction between the two is fairly arbitrary: cetacean researcher Hal Whitehead defines a breach as any leap in which at least 40% of the animal's body clears the water, and a lunge as a leap with less than 40% clearance. [2]

  5. Fasciation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fasciation

    Fasciation (pronounced / ˌ f æ ʃ i ˈ eɪ ʃ ə n /, from the Latin root meaning "band" or "stripe"), also known as cresting, is a relatively rare condition of abnormal growth in vascular plants in which the apical meristem (growing tip), which normally is concentrated around a single point and produces approximately cylindrical tissue ...

  6. Swell (ocean) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swell_(ocean)

    Breaking swell waves at Hermosa Beach, California. A swell, also sometimes referred to as ground swell, in the context of an ocean, sea or lake, is a series of mechanical waves that propagate along the interface between water and air under the predominating influence of gravity, and thus are often referred to as surface gravity waves.

  7. Wave shoaling - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_shoaling

    Some of the important wave processes are refraction, diffraction, reflection, wave breaking, wave–current interaction, friction, wave growth due to the wind, and wave shoaling. In the absence of the other effects, wave shoaling is the change of wave height that occurs solely due to changes in mean water depth – without alterations in wave ...

  8. The Structure and Distribution of Coral Reefs - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Structure_and...

    Canton Island typifies the isolated coral atolls dotting the Pacific Ocean. The Structure and Distribution of Coral Reefs, Being the first part of the geology of the voyage of the Beagle, under the command of Capt. Fitzroy, R.N. during the years 1832 to 1836, was published in 1842 as Charles Darwin's first monograph, and set out his theory of the formation of coral reefs and atolls.

  9. Notch signaling pathway - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Notch_signaling_pathway

    Notch signaling is dysregulated in many cancers, and faulty notch signaling is implicated in many diseases, including T-cell acute lymphoblastic leukemia , [4] cerebral autosomal-dominant arteriopathy with sub-cortical infarcts and leukoencephalopathy (CADASIL), multiple sclerosis, Tetralogy of Fallot, and Alagille syndrome. Inhibition of notch ...