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Bottled oxygen can help mountaineers survive in the death zone. Mountaineers use supplemental oxygen in the death zone to reduce deleterious effects. An open-circuit oxygen apparatus was first tested on the 1922 and 1924 British Mount Everest expeditions; the bottled oxygen taken in 1921 was not used (see George Finch and Noel Odell).
It is about half of its sea-level value at 5,000 m (16,000 ft), the altitude of the Everest Base Camp, and only a third at 8,848 m (29,029 ft), the summit of Mount Everest. [9] When pO 2 drops, the body responds with altitude acclimatization. [10]
The lack of oxygen poses one of greatest threats to climbers who attempt to summit, with levels dropping to less than 40% when they reach the Everest “death zone.”
On 8 May 1978, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler made the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen. [40] Messner had ascended all 14 "eight-thousanders" without supplemental oxygen by 1986. Running out of bottled oxygen was noted as a factor in the 1979 deaths of Ray Genet and Hannelore Schmatz on Mount Everest. [41]
Graham Cooper exercises while wearing a training mask that simulates the low oxygen levels at high altitudes on Mt. Everest. Graham Cooper sleeps with his head in a bag. Not just any bag.
This is particularly seen as a cause of cerebral hypoxia and mountain sickness in climbers of Mount Everest and other peaks of extreme altitude. [14] [15] For example, at the peak of Mount Everest, the partial pressure of oxygen is just 43 mmHg, whereas at sea level the partial pressure is 150 mmHg. [16]
As part of his preparation for the Mt. Everest expedition, Graham Cooper spent months sleeping in a hypoxic tent that slowly lowers the oxygen level to mimic conditions at extreme altitude.
North face of Mount Everest. Over 340 people have died attempting to reach—or return from—the summit of Mount Everest which, at 8,848.86 m (29,031 ft 8 + 1 ⁄ 2 in), is Earth's highest mountain and a particularly desirable peak for mountaineers. This makes it the mountain with the most deaths, although it does not have the highest death rate.